Decanting with Delkin
Oregon Wine Entrepreneur
Falters in New Zealand
By Fred Delkin
Gary Andrus seems finally to have met his match in New Zealand after
creating successful winery enterprises in Napa and Oregon.
Andrus’ Gypsy Dancer property on the South Island was placed in
receivership last month by the Bank of New Zealand. Andrus began his
vintner odyssey by founding Napa’s Pine Ridge winery in 1978. He came
to
Oregon in 1993 to create the spectacular Archery Summit property in
the Dundee Hills. Andrus sold his shares of both Pine Ridge and Archery
Summit in 2001, then purchased vineyards in both Oregon and New
Zealand to start the Gypsy Dancer label.
Andrus, 57, became an oenology devotee after earning an organic chemistry
degree from Brigham Young University, where he also performed as a
tackle on the BYU grid squad.
He earned his winemaking chops with post graduate studies at Oregon
State
and the University of Montpelier in France. His interest in Pinot Noir
brought him to Oregon and led to an investment in what was then a
state-of-the-art Archery Summit vineyards and winery in the Dundee
Hills. That facility’s underground tunnelled cellars are the equal of any
in Europe.
A divorce settlement claimed both Pine Ridge and Archery Summit
properties, but Andrus came back to his favorite varietal with the
purchase
of the small Lion Valley Vineyards southeast of Hillsboro to create
the
Gypsy Dancer label. This property and a New Zealand acquisition in
the same year of 2002 gave Andrus an opportunity to vinify Pinot Noir in
two
regions ideal for this finicky grape.
At last report, he was living with his new wife in New Zealand and
attempting to find new investors to bail out his Kiwi facility, which
was
financially hammered by successive years of cold, wet weather that
markedly retarded harvests.
Random sips...whatever
will the world’s fine dining sommeliers do if the
current success of screw caps continues to inspire wineries to switch
from
the time-honored cork closure. There’s just no glamor to twisting off
the cap
as compared to ceremoniously pulling the cork...shame on the Oregon
Beer
& Wine Distributors Association for comping thousands of dollars
worth of Hawaiian sojourns for several legislators, a rather blatant way
to purchase
legislative influence, wouldn’t you say?
© 2006 Fred Delkin |