By Fred Delkin

Wine grape varietals have not all begun their botanical lives in European wine regions. California lays claim to an American wine grape original, Zinfandel,  which first appeared in California vineyards in the late 19th century. It is  related to the Primitivo grape of Italy’s Apulia region and to Croatia’s Plavac Mali, as confirmed by DNA testing in the 1990's. Yet bottlings from these  ancestors fail to achieve the lushness of their American descendant.

Cuttings brought by European immigrants to our shores evolved into  Zinfandel in California vineyards with rocky soils and notable elevation. What is now designated on labels as "old vine Zinfandel" emanates from gnarled,  twisted plants from 40 to over 100 years in age. Until 1972, it was always a hearty, rustic red wine. Then Napa’s Sutter Home introduced "White  Zinfandel", a pale pink, slightly sweet beverage from less than top quality grapes. This bland beginner’s wine is a sales success, but should not be  confused with the rich full bodied reds from the crops of vines seated in ideal, and challenging, growing conditions found in some of California’s oldest and  highest vineyards, primarily in Amador and Sonoma counties.

Old vine Zin is a mouth-filling, dry wine loaded with jammy berry flavors. It is low on the bitterness of tannins, big on fruity taste. It has been described by wine writer Karen MacNeill as "thick, chewy and teeth-staining." It is an  extremely versatile marriage partner with food...standing up well with  long-cooked items such as beef stew and lamb shanks and sets off grilled items with smooth gusto. It is ideal with everything from pizza, ribs, sausage, meat loaf to hamburgers.

One of California’s most awarded vintners, Carol Shelton, earned attention  for other varietals she crafted for years with several prestigious Napa and  Sonoma wineries before investing in her own winery and devoting herself  exclusively to extracting the ultimate potenital of Zinfandel for her own label. Other notable Zin producers include Ridge, Nalle, Mount Aukum, Coturri,  Ravenswood and Turley.

Holiday celebrations engender America’s prime wine consumption period. We are prone to toast each other with champagne and other sparklers, but we urge you all to also honor our nation’s only native varietal and wave the flag for Zinfandel as an ideal accompaniment to the holiday table. 

© 2005 Oregon Magazine