Southern Oregon is a source for a favorite red varietal of ours: Cabernet Franc.  Vineyards in the Umpqua and Rogue valley regions produce this fruit that thrives in our southern valleys which are dryer and warmer than the Willamette region.  As a 100% varietal wine, Cabernet Franc has a silky smoothness without the tannins or bite of Cabernet Sauvignon and a bolder flavor than Pinot Noir, and reminiscent of black cherries.  The grape matures earlier than its Cabernet cousin and doesn’t require as much warmth as the latter to reach its flavor potential.

The grape is native to France, where it is a prominent contributor to the wines of Bordeaux, blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to achieve character and smoothness.  It is a partner in some outstanding southern Oregon red blends now on the market.  Notable among these are Abacela’s Vintners Blend, Henry Estate’s Henry V, Ashland Vineyards’ Millenium, Paschal’s Quartet, Weisinger’s Petite Pompadour, and Foris’s Fly Over Red.  Each of these bottlings are superb food wines with lighter fare such as duck and pork.  They are in the $20 price range, but worth it!

Purity also reigns

We admire the grape as a source of pure varietals, with Abacela, Ashland, Foris and Siskiyou labels included in this category, with some prices lower than the blends.

Our southern wine regions are attracting new red grape vineyard development, with Merlot, Malbec, Syrah, Dolcetto and Tempranillo plantings gaining favor where Pinot Noir hasn’t found a happy home.   Girardet is harvesting a rare French species, Baco Noir, producing a distinct smoky red wine that ages well.

The south shall continue to rise in our state’s wine industry.  It offers climate more conducive to a long list of varietals than the Pinot-intensive conditions in the north.  It also helps that an absence of urbanization has left large tracts of land suitable for agriculture in a price range begging for investment.

The wine bar craze

Portland is experiencing a sudden proliferation of wine bars.  These establishments provide a by-the-glass tasting education with a worldly scope.  They also stock a broad variety of bottled wines to go, priced at retail.  Thus the consumer can acquire an admired glass pour for home consumption.  Small plates of food treats are offered and advice given as to ideal food and wine matches.  We have seen a choice of as many as 40 glass pours offered, leaving a wine lover to hope that business is brisk and open bottles don’t oxidize with inattention.   

These operations are modest in scope, with the owners’ investment heavier in wine than its surroundings.    The attendance we’ve noted tends to be young and professional, promising a broadening of wine consumption per capita through these classrooms.

Both urban sides of Portland now offer wine bars, including the first downtown installation, OregonWines on Broadway.  Pearl district currently supports two wine bars a block apart, 750 ML and In Good Taste, the latter also with catering and kitchen classes.  Noble Rot and Navarre lie a block apart on NE 28th near Burnside.

© 2003 Oregon Magazine