By Fred Delkin

Wed, 21 Feb 2007 - A quartet of Oregon restaurants have just received "Awards of Distinction" from national Wine Enthusiast magazine. The New York-based publication’s latest issue announces this honor for Portland’s Salty’s and Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, Dundee’s Bistro and The Bay House on the Oregon coast. In all, 516 restaurants in the United States received awards.

We particularly salute two of these honorees, Bay House and Dundee Bistro, for their emphasis on Oregon wines. The Bay House has been a fine dining destination for 30 years, but new proprietor Stephen Wilson has placed a new emphasis on his wine list, under the direction of sommelier Thomas McLaren, who presides over a stock approaching 1,100 selections. Only Salishan Resort, just two miles away, exceeds McLaren’s numbers, storing some 10,000 bottles in a cellar established years ago by Oregon wine legend Phil DeVito. 

The Bay House fare concentrates on seafood. The wine list offers a lengthy choice of wines by the glass, 100 selections by the half bottle -- and spotlights 750mm bottles in a "50 selections under $30" category. The house obligation to the fermented grape will soon be enhanced by a Wine Cellar & Bottle Shop extension to be completed by summer.

Dundee Bistro is the Ponzi family’s contribution to a local wine industry already owing a debt to winery owner Dick Ponzi’s pioneer efforts in building the state’s vinous reputation. The Bistro is on the U.S. highway 99 gateway to our state’s wine country. The wine list offers a rare opportunity to sample the best of boutique local labels with an emphasis on Pinot Noir. This varietal is also represented by California and New Zealand selections featured at the annual International Pinot Noir Celebration in McMinnville. Impresario Jason Stoller Smith features suggested wine pairings with menu specials.

The quartet of establishments above are no rarity in a state that has inspired above average wine lists as the restaurant dining norm. When yours truly owned Jake’s Crawfish (predecessor to the national McCormick & Schmick’s chain), we crafted one of Portland’s only sophisticated lists, exceeded only at the time by the Benson hotel’s London Grill. My, how the vinous dining scene has changed! 
 
 

© 2007 Oregon Magazine