Decanting With Delkin
A Toast to Ernest, Who
Turned America Wineward
By Fred Delkin
All lovers of the fermented grape should pause this month to lift a
toast to the man responsible for convincing the American public that there
was an alternative to the beer and bourbon that long dominated our
alcohol consumption.
Ernest Gallo left us on March 6 at the tender age of 97.
He, far more than any other figure, introduced wine to post-Prohibition
America. Ernest was growing and selling grapes in 1933 in Modesto,
California when he opted to go into selling bottled wine. He convinced
his older brother Julio to join him and handle production. These sons of
Italian immigrants borrowed a few thousand dollars from Ernest’s
mother-in-law to start their enterprise and the rest is vinous history.
We well remember consuming Hearty Burgundy in our misspent youth and
declaring it "not bad for a jug wine." E & J Gallo pioneered the
modern wine distribution system and was the first American winery to employ
its own national sales force. By the ‘40's, Gallo was pioneering
the art of shelf placement and point-of-sale promotion in supermarkets.
By the ‘60's, Gallo was the world’s highest volume winery and became
the first to advertise the product on television (soon to be followed by
California rival Italian Swiss Colony).
Today, the Gallo heritage has evolved into fine wine production under
the direction of the founders’ grandchildren, who own or supervise
several thousand acres of prime California vineyards whose crops are graced
by a family of premium labels. In 2006, Gallo achieved case sales of 62
million, according to the industry publication Wine Business Monthly.
U.S. imbibers are now consuming more wine per capita than ever before,
with domestic wine production augmented by a flood of premium wine
imports...a far cry from when Ernest launched his effort to make wine as
inherent to our culture as it was to his European ancestors. (website is
http://www.gallo.com/)
Yes, wine is healthy
Recent and authoratative research studies have added to the weight of
evidence that wine has health benefits. Some two decades ago, both French
and Dutch government-sponsored studies agreed that Pinot Noir enhanced
one’s sexual activity. Now the American Heart Association has released
documentation that consumption of up to two glasses of wine daily externds
the drinker’s life span...and the same source credits red wine for halving
the risk of prostate cancer. A new Spanish study declares that consuming
dark chocolate with a young, fruity red wine such as Beaujolais or Syrah
will lessen tension and the consequent danger of cardiovascular disesase.
All things, of course are in moderation when observing these health
benefits.
Rednecks share wine’s benefits
AC Nielsen, accepted guru of media measurements has just released a
study showing that wine consumption among NASCAR racing fans is up 22%
from a year ago, far outpacing the U.S. per capita wine consumption growth.
The Texas Motor Speedway has responded to fans’ demands by becoming the
first sports venue in the Lone Star state to allow fans to purchase wine
in
the grandstand during races...and you thought beer was the drink of
choice for car crash followers!
Aussies target American market
Any doubt that Australia’s burgeoning wine industry is concentrating
on export expansion was erased recently by our attendance at an online
seminar arranged by a Napa public relations firm on behalf of speaker Scott
McWilliams, sixth generation winemaker of perhaps Down Under’s most
prestigious label, established in 1877. McWilliams earned Australia winery
of the year distinction in 2006. Scott just supervised a 2007 harvest he
described as the earliest and finest in Hunter Valley region history. The
McWilliams family now owns vineyards in the six most prominent Australian
viticultural areas (Hunter, Barossa, Clare, Eden, Margaret and Coonawara).
Varietals cultivated include Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Semillon, Pinot
Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Riesling. This diversity
of
grapes is testament to the breadth of soil and climatic conditions
across the
Australian continent. Scott studied viticulture in France and California
before
assuming the reins of his family’s winery. He personally favors Cabernet
Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Semillon. (The latter variety is particularly
adept at producing quality despite drought conditions where it is
raised, and it has
the acidity to retain premium quality up to 25 years in the bottle.)
The
Hunter Valley boasts higher elevation, cool climate pockets favoring
premium Pinot Noir, which Scott says is popular with American fine
wine
restaurant lists and wine specialty retailers.
McWilliams’ wines are distinctive in avoiding oak flavor in Chardonnay
and striving for dryness in Riesling. Scott decries the rush for expansion
of Australian wine production which "is producing a glut of new producers
sacrificing quality in favor of volume to meet export sales goals. Visit
http://www.mcwilliamswines.com for information.
© 2007 Oregon Magazine The photo belongs to
Gallo, and is a hotlink to their site. |