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DECANTING WITH DELKIN 
Newcomers Vie for
Winery Attention
  By Fred Delkin

 Last we did a tally, there was no shortage of small wineries popping up in our neighborhood…yet, a visit to the expansion celebration of the Oregon Convention Center this past month opened our eyes to a trio of newcomers to nearby vinous production ranks…despite the fact that there is an international wine production glut appearing on our retail shelves at record low prices for premium grade bottlings.

Describing the eight owner/founders of Newberg’s Mia Jove’ Cellars as a diverse group is no stretch.  The principals include two mechanical engineers, an insurance salesperson, a project manager a steel fabricator, a housewife, a travel consultant and (fortunately!) a winemaker.  This bunch began formulating their winery plan in February 2002, based upon a plot of land, a barn and, of course, a dream.  The location where a tasting room is under construction is just up Calkins Lane from Adelsheim Vineyards’ extensive complex.  A Memorial Day Weekend event will showcase the first wine releases, which include 2002 Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling and 2001 Pinot Noir and Merlot.

The Mia Jove’ motto is “crafting fine wines at an affordable price.”  The latter classification will be revealed Memorial Day weekend.

Champagne Creek Emerges

David and Janiece Brown have created the newest reincarnation of a winery site just west of Roseburg.  Champagne Creek Cellars has emerged on a site that has been a home to now defunct Di Martini, Garden Valley and Callahan Ridge labels…a site first homesteaded by the Champaign family who immigrated from France in 1878 and erected the rustic barn that still serves as a tasting room, office and production facility.  Several acres of vineyard are adjacent.  The tasting room is open daily, 11-6).  The Browns are devoted to grape diversity (expressed in their winery motto “a wine for every table”) with fruit resources that include a majority of  the varietals grown in Oregon.  The Umpqua valley climate is friendly to premium reds beyond Pinot Noir which dominates Oregon vineyards north of this region.

The current selection includes Pinot Noir (reserve @ 13.50, regular @ 7.20, Gamay Noir (10.80), Cabernet Sauvignon (6.50), Pinot Gris (9.00), Riesling (8.10), Gewurztraminer (8.10), a line of “Fox” blends (Red, White & Pink, ea. 5.40) and a late harvest Riesling (16.18).  Futures are offered on a Cabernet/Grenache blend @ 132/case, a Syrah @ 180/case and a Cabernet Sauvignon from the historic Doerner Vineyard @192/Case.

Winery access is just west of the I-5 Roseburg exit, traveling on Garden Valley Rd. , left to Melrose Rd. and north on Old Melrose Rd.
 

“Passion, Patience, Balance”

These are the guidelines followed by Maryhill Winery, on the northern bluff overlooking the Columbia river adjacent to the Maryhill Museum created at the dawn of the 20th century by railroad magnate Sam Hill.   The Leuthold family of Spokane, already versed in both brewery and coffee enterprises, planted vineyards here in the ‘90’s and built a winery whose tasting room and scenic deck area were opened in 2001.  Last year a 2,500 seat ampitheater was begun next to the winery complex and opens this summer with a lineup of nationally-known musical performers that include Lou Rawls, Nancy Wilson, 
Emmylou Harris, Los Lobos and others with acts extending to the first week in October.

The view from the deck and arbor fronting the winery is nothing less than incredible.  The wines aren’t bad, either.  Major wine competitions staged in California, Texas and South Carolina this past year bestowed medals on Maryhill’s 2000 Syrah, Merlot and Pinot Gris and 2001 Sauvignon Blanc, while the 2000 Zinfandel earned Gold and “Best of Class” in the West Coast Wine Competition.  Winemaker John Haw learned his craft in Michigan before moving to Oregon and a sojourn at Sokol Blosser in the Willamette Valley.  Next, he massaged grapes for two years in California’s Sonoma region before joining the Maryhill startup.

Maryhill vineyards emphasize red varietals that excel in the hot summers and fairly moderate winters on the edge of the upper Columbia gorge, but winemaker Haw has shown his versatility in the current selections, priced to represent premium quality.  These include Sangiovese (Tuscan-bred backbone of Italy’s Chiantis) @24.00, Zinfandel (28.00), Cabernet Franc (15.00), a “Fort Rock Red” blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah & Cabernet Franc (15.00), Cab Franc Rose’ (14.00), Pinot Noir (20.00) and five whites:  Vigonier (15.00), Sauvignon Blanc (11.00), Gewurztraminer (12.00), Pinot Gris (11.00) and Riesling (12.00).

The Maryhill site is just over 100 miles east of Portland.  Interstate 84 is the fastest approach, then traverse the river on Hwy. 197 from The Dalles, turn east on Hwy 14 and the final 15 miles are a corkscrew uphill climb for 15 miles.  This is a very worthwhile destination, combining wine tasting, a picnic with a view and cultural enrichment at Maryhill Museum.

© 2003 Oregon Magazine


 
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