By Fred Delkin

 Oregon is where all the winery excitement was as we entered the ‘80’s.  Our neighbors just to our north boasted one large producer, Chateau Ste Michelle, but only 18 others, while Oregon had over 30 wineries, seemed to be adding one a week, and was basking in international attention for its suddenly discovered Pinot Noir.

Today, Oregon has over 130 producers, but Washington claims well over 200.  The Evergreen State’s winery growth exploded in the ‘90’s…from 80 in ’96 to 240 this year. 

Washington now ranks second only to California (900 wineries, including 232 in Napa Valley alone).  Oregon claims third place in winery numbers, with New York the only other state in triple figures.  However, each of our 50 states can boast at least one producing winery, within a total of just over 2,000 producers nationwide.  Delaware and Mississippi rank last, with one producer each.  Alaska has a surprising four wineries, but these all have grapes shipped in from other states.

If you’ve visited Washington’s primary vineyard region, you’d never confuse the artificially irrigated stretches of central and eastern Washington appellations with the lush, rain washed grape havens of western Oregon.  Warm weather commands the growing season in Washington and encourages vineyard concentration upon Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay.  Beyond Pinot Noir, Oregon became a home for its white cousin Pinot Gris and strengthened our reliance upon the French axiom that “the harder the grape struggles to ripen, the finer the wine.”

Land value a key

Developing vineyards is very economical in the treeless expanses north of the Columbia river, where the Washington winery/vineyard explosion has been centered.   Stimson Lane is a mega corporation (currently $200 million in annual wine sales) that now controls the Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest, Snoqualmie and Paul Thomas labels, plus Napa Valley’s Villa Mt. Eden…and operates a European-styled tasting complex in Woodinville, just outside Seattle.  This sprawling chateau has inspired over a dozen other Washington wineries to situate tasting rooms in the same neighborhood, enabling a broad sampling of Washington wine labels without traveling many, many miles eastward into the Columbia, Yakima and Walla Walla growing regions which lack both urban and scenic attractions.

We prefer the average size, and charming surroundings of western Oregon wineries, but our tastebuds tell us that Oregon wine quality is equaled by several Washington varietals  (though our Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc are unchallenged).  

From the Grapevine…www.washingtonwine.org is a compendium of  information on grape goings on to our north…Riesling is a white varietal that also gains some distinction from Washington vintners…export of American wines has hit the wall, with the price/quality ratio of wines from Europe, South America, South Africa and Australia discouraging foreign-based importers and accounting for the dramatic surge in U.S. domestic retail volume and variety…we salute Portland’s new Whole Foods establishment for unveiling very knowledgeable wine buying…but are shocked at pricing for some European labels they carry that are selling for double to triple the price we’ve paid overseas…if food truly matters in your choice of a wine bar, don’t miss Portland’s Noble Rot, where chef/owner Leather Storrs conjures inexpensive, delicious and imaginative plates.

© 2003 Oregon Magazine