The Pacific Northwest is home to an ambitious new winery venture based upon a grape that has until now gotten little emphasis in the region's push toward vinous fame. Pacific Rim has just released a trio of Riesling styles aimed at increasing American acceptance of a very food-friendly wine. The winery and vineyards are in Washington state's Red Mountain appellation near the Tri Cities, while marketing offices are in Portland. This is no small venture. The 27,500 sq. ft. winery opened in April has made 120,000 cases of Riesling this year and is expected to reach a 300,000 case volume in the near future. 

This is a new adventure for eclectic California wine guru Randall Grahm, best known for the zany labels and creative blends of his Bonny Doon winery above Santa Cruz. Pacific Rim was a Bonny Doon Riesling label that was discontinued. It now graces some very handsome packaging with an Asian theme relating to the wine's affinity for Thai and Vietnamese cuisines now prevalent in these United States. 

The Pacif Rim Riesling selection includes a light sweet (8.5 alcohol, 7% residual sugar) a robust dry (12.5 alcohol, .75 residual sugar) and a dessert Vin de Glaciere (9 alcohol, 16.2% residual sugar). We tasted these as well as a vividly floral Chenin Blanc (12.5 alcohol, 1.2% residual sugar) at an unveiling staged at Portland's Classical Chinese Garden. Each was very elegant, balanced and lush with flavor. The Chenin Blanc is from 25-year-old vines acquired  when space for new vines above the Columbia river was developed.  

Riesling Rules

Grahm, whose Bonny Doon label copy has always entertained, has authorized a host of sayings for Pacific Rim, including: Pacific Rim ... for all the right Rieslings, Free yourself from the oak of oppression, Put some wow in your Kung Pao, Friends don't let friends drink Chardonnay, It's okay to cheat on your Chardonnay, and Join the Riesling revolution.  

The Pacific Rim winemaker and general manager is Frenchman Nidolas Quille, who was  working for Washington's Hogue Cellars. The new Wallula vineyards are farmed biodynamically in keeping with ecological trends. The Tri Cities-Yakima Valley region has ideal growing conditions for white wine grapes, with a short, very warm early ripening combined with  very cold winters.  Pacific Rim has plans for growing the mainstay white grape of Austria, Gruner Veltliner, and the  red Gamay Noir native to the Beaujolais region of France. 

Globalization has become a mainstay of the expanding Northwest wine industry, with major German and Italian investments in Washington, and French and Australian funds finding a home in Oregon.

© 2007 Oregon Magazine