As we head into spring, consider an automobile expedition to Oregon’s outback...best epitomized by Lake County, over 8,000 square miles of stark vistas, geographical contrasts and a population of only 7,500.  This is the state’s third largest county, bordering on California and reaching into the center of central Oregon...and well worth an escape from urbanization. 
        
This vast expanse supports livestock herds as its primary economic resource.  It contains 10 small communities, but only two are incorporated...the county seat of Lakeview, just 14 miles north of the California border on U.S. highway 395, and Paisley, 40 miles north of Lakeview and a school site for surrounding cattle ranches.  Lakeview, at 4,800 ft., bills itself as the “tallest town in Oregon” and also boasts of Old Perpetual Geyser, shooting 60 feet into the air every 90 seconds in emulation of its cousin in Yellowstone National Park.  Local history is on display at both the Schmink Memorial Museum and the Lake County Museum. 

By May, a visit to Lakeview will substantiate the town’s claim to be “Hang Gliding Capital of the West,” as colorful craft launch from surrounding cliffs into uplifting thermals created over the valley floor (4th of July weekend offers a Hang Gliding Festival).  The town overlooks the virtual inland sea of Goose Lake to the immediate south and straddling the state border.  The village of New Pine Creek edges Goose Lake and has the distinction of half the town being in Oregon and half being in California..  

Driving north from Lakeview on 395, you’ll soon see the 33-mile long geographical wonder of Abert Rim, towering 2,000 feet above the shore of Lake Abert.  Northwest of Lakeview highway 31 leads to Summer Lake, another large body of water halfway between Lakeview and Bend and site for the colorful resort  Lodge at Summer Lake.  This road is also the access for Christmas Valley/Fort Rock homestead area and carries the sobriquet Oregon Outback National Scenic Byway.  The Fort Rock Homestead Village Museum is worth a visit.

Where the Antelope Play

Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge is on a side road northeast of Lakeview, with the metropolis of Plush as gateway.  Herds of this graceful beast roam the 270,000 acre Refuge which borders on a string of Warner Valley lakes and is overseen by 8,000-foot Warner Peak.  Warner Canyon Ski Area, just 8 miles northeast of Lakeview, offers downhill lift-served skiing, usually into mid March.

 We recommend accessing Oregon’s Outback via Highway 31 leaving U.S. Highway 97 at La Pine, south of Bend.  Camera gear and fishing equipment will find uses on this journey.  Golf clubs can get a workout at the Christmas Valley Lodge & Golf Club.  You’ll marvel at the wide open spaces that adorn this cowboy country.  Blue skies are the norm, with Lake County tallying less than 16 inches of annual rainfall.  However, this is not typical desert country, with the overall altitude keeping temperatures relatively low...July has the highest average temperature at 67 degrees.  

Devote at least a week to touring the Oregon Outback, a lasting relief from urbanity as its known west of the Cascades, and you’ll testify to the friendliness of local residents.  

© 2004 Oregon Magazine