| Oregonians Revere Their
Offtrail Coastal Retreat By Fred Delkin The Oregon Coast has an international reputation as a tourist destination. Yet few folks outside Oregon are aware that U.S. Highway 101 and its inland connecting links are not the only way to access or enjoy this rugged and scenic shoreline. Tourists flow steadily along 101, pausing to shop, lodge and explore such destinations as Astoria, Seaside, Cannon Beach, Manzanita, Rockaway, Tillamook, Lincoln City, Newport, Florence, Coos Bay, Bandon and Brookings…but never taking the only westward bypass off this otherwise coastal-hugging route. Tillamook, billing itself as the “land of cheese, trees and ocean breeze,” is the chief 101 waypost at the northern end of a 25-mile section of that highway that wends its way without views of the ocean to the west. Yet those in the know realize that Tillamook (Indian dialect for “land of many waters”) is but 6 miles from a side road signed “Three Capes Scenic Route” that provides entry to such beachfront retreats as Cape Meares, Oceanside, Netarts Bay, Tierra Del Mar, Pacific City and Neskowin. Cape escapes The Capes are, north to south, Meares (fronting Tillamook Bay), Lookout (sea side of Netarts Bay) and Kiwanda (guarding Pacific City’s shorefront). Unfortunately, “The Capes” is also the name of a recent vacation home development just north of Netarts Bay that a perhaps offended Mother Nature has attempted to wash back into the sea. The Cape route offers virtually unparalleled access to Oregon’s saltwater seafood resources. Public boat ramps along the way offer launching to those who tow their craft, and are also home to guided charters for Salmon and Crab. Tillamook and Netarts estuaries are low tide treasure lodes for clamming. The Netarts scene We are partial to Netarts (see “Oysterman Parlays…” article in this month’s Business section) as a pause point. Tillamook Bay, as one of the richest Salmon and Crab incubators on the Pacific coast, attracts floating crowds through summer and fall, while Netarts remains relatively crowd-free. The shoreside community here is tiny, numbering three dining spots, a tavern and a couple of small groceries, plus several places to find a bed. Our favorite lodging is the venerable The Terimore, Lodging by the Sea. This collection of inexpensive rooms (some with kitchens) is on the bluff overlooking the entrance to the bay and its oceanside spit. A separate deck platform on bluff’s edge offers benches, tables and a spectacular view. Pets are welcome and there’s a do-it-yourself crab-boiling facility. Netarts crabbing and clamming can be accessed via the county public marina just around the corner from The Terimore. This facility has a launching ramp and mooring docks and charges no fee, thanks to the provisions made by the private property owner who donated this area for public use. Small outboard craft are available for rental here and at the Bay Shore RV park and campground just upbay from the marina. The sandy spit on the ocean side of the bay is part of Cape Lookout state park and is reached via a hiking trail from the park or by boating across the bay. It’s an ideal spot to loll on the beach, build a small fire for cooking your crab catch and to get a closeup view of the Sea Lion herd that hangs out here. Dining options Netarts’ dining-out opportunities include The Schooner at the marina and the new Hungry Halibut on the highway through the village and serving legendary seafood portions in a remodeled facility formerly serving as a gas station and garage. Driving south from Netarts on the cape route, you pass the state park and wind up over the top of Cape Lookout, then drop down to the beach and the collection of private cottages (some serving as short term rentals) dubbed Tierra Del Mar. Continue on a couple of miles southward and you’re on the backside of Cape Kiwanda, then onto the edge of the Pacific City beach. This is the home of the only licensed, beach launched, dory fishing charters in the world…and a stimulating cruise opportunity this is, no matter your fishing fortunes!
New lodging Just across the road from the Pelican is the very new Inn at Cape Kiwanda.
This multi-level structure offers guests a great glimpse of the beach scene
and the heaving ocean beyond. Funky old Pacific City’s downtown,
on the banks of the Nestucca River mouth, offers a collection of shops,
galleries and restaurants, the latter including the Riverhouse, which has
gained some national note and whose bottled Blue Cheese salad dressing
is
During the month of October, you’re likely to enjoy what locals call the “second summer” in the Three Capes area. Not only do sunshine and warm temperatures enhance your visit, but lodging rates drop dramatically from their summertime high. Just inland from Pacific City lies the Sand Lake Recreational Area, where offroad vehicle aficionados are allowed to run their vehicles over the dunes. The southward road from Pacific City reconnects with Highway 101, which soon brings you to the tourist mecca of Lincoln City, boasting all things beatific or banal that you’d expect in an oceanside burg. This should cause you to consider a u-turn to revisit the less-developed coastal stretch you just left. |
Right
on the edge of the sand, sits the Pelican Brewery & Pub. (OMED:
Fred
took the photo. He says the shadowy people in it are quaffing beers.)
This dining and drinking hub offers what must be the most spectaular brew
pub setting anywhere. Lift a cool one while watching the year-round
surfboarding just yards from where you sit, and backdropped by one of two
Oregon coastal landmarks named Haystack Rock (the other is offshore at
Cannon Beach).