HOME ON THE RANGE:
Oregon Magazine’s monthly review of gustatory delights
Culinary Treasures From
King Neptune's Vault
By Seared Lightly
Let’s
talk about seafood and its particular pleasures for Oregonians. Having
just returned from a brief visit to the Oregon coast, we are reminded of
the extent of our ocean treasures, and, sadly, the economic travails of
those who harvest this bounty.
Tourism has largely replaced commercial fishing as the prime source
of income for coastal communities. Yet enough boats still go out
to provide us a resource for such northern Pacific delicacies as:
Salmon—despite the ever-increasing flow of farmed salmon from
far away lands, our markets will be well stocked in the next three months
with both wild fish and native hatchery harvest for both Chinook and Coho.
We offer a simple and foolproof Salmon preparation:
Marlene’s Savory Salmon
Use a filleted (preferably from the center) boneless cut weighing a
minimum of 2 pounds. Figure ½ lb. of fish per serving.
Marinating times are for room temperature.
1/3 cup Olive Oil 1/3 cup Soy Sauce
1/3 cup Basamic Vinegar Salmon filet
Mix oil, vinegar and soy sauce with a whisk and pour into an oven-proof
dish. Place the Salmon flesh side down in the marinade for 30 minutes.
Then, turn the Salmon skin side down for 15 minutes. Place the Salmon,
in the marinade, in a preheated 500-degree oven for 6 minutes. Turn
off the oven and let the Salmon remain in the oven as it cools (20-30 min.)
and you’re ready to receive congratulations. Note: this marinade
penetrates the fish and keeps it moist, while adding a subtle flavor.
Go this route instead of your outdoor grill and results will be consistent.
Tualatin Lox
We’ve enjoyed traditional Scandinavian, German and Scottish Lox recipes
in our time, but none has equalled the following, obtained from former
Tualatin Vineyards winery owner Virginia Fuller. The alcoholic spirits
set this apart! Great weekend breakfast item, served with recipe
below for spread on bagels.
5 lbs. boneless Salmon filet ½ cup Rock Salt
¼ cup Sugar 1 tsp. White Pepper
15 sprigs, fresh Dill ¼ cup dry Sherry
½ cup Cognac
Mix Salt, White Pepper and Sugar and rub on both sides of the
fish. Place fishin a shallow glass dish. Mix Sherry and
Cognac, sprinkle on top of Salmon, trying not to disturb the rub mixture.
Lay Dill sprigs under and on top of the fish. Cover with plastic
wrap. Place a weight same size as the filet on top (use cast iron
pan or oblong baking dish and set cans of food in it for weight).
Marinate in the fridge for 5 days…every 24 hours, spoon liquid in the dish
over the Salmon. After 5 days, rinse lightly, slice and serve.
For Bagel Spread…finely chop 1 red Onion, mix with whipped Cream Cheese
(you can buy it in this form) and 2-3 ounces of bottled Capers…a ½
lb. of Cheese is adequate.
Shrimp—we find the small native north Pacific Shrimp, cooked,
at all seafood retailers. These are best served cold, as is, in a
Shrimp Cocktail with dressing of your choice, or tossed in a salad.
Ask if they’re fresh or frozen…there’s a difference! And speaking
of fresh, keep asking until you find some fresh Spot Prawns…native to deeper
offshore waters from Oregon to Alaska. Buy these raw in-shell,
and steam very briefly (3 min.) in a basket suspended over boiling
water and covered. These should be called Sugar Prawns, they’re so
sweet! These tender morsels will surpass the taste of any shrimp
or prawn you’ve ever had. In the fall, you may get a bonus…red roe
attached to the belly of these delicacies.
Crab—there is no finer crab on earth than our native Dungeness,
superior in both sweetness of flavor and tenderness. Ultimate way to enjoy
this gift of the gods is to catch it yourself with baited ring or trap
dropped into one of our major coastal bays during the incoming tide.
When you have one apiece for each of your party, land on an open beach,
build a fire (or use a portable propane cooker) and put sea water and Old
Bay Crab Boil seasoning mix, to taste, into a large pot. Boil your
Crab for no more than 12 minutes. Bring along some Mayonnaise mixed
with a little Curry Powder…or dried Dill…for dipping the Crab.
Crab & Shrimp Cakes
Here’s a family recipe, concocted in defense of the very high
price of shelled Dungeness Crab. This approach favors baking, rather
than frying the cakes. The following recipe will feed six generously.
½ tsp. Dry Mustard ½ cup finely chopped Celery
½ cup chopped Onion ½ cup chopped Bell Pepper
½ lb. shelled Crab meat 1 cup Mayonnaise
1 lb. Oregon Shrimp ¾ cup seasoned Bread Crumbs
1 Egg
Break up larger pieces of Crab, chop Shrimp into thirds.
Mix thoroughly all ingredients, using half the Bread Crumbs. Form
mixture into 3” diameter, ½” thick patties. Coat patties
with remaining Bread Crumbs. Place patties on a greased cookie sheet
and bake for 15 minutes in a 350-degree oven.
Tuna—the Albacore Tuna school relatively close to our coastline
on a cyclical basis. As we write, commercial trawlers are bringing
a good catch to pier at our various ports and many are selling dockside
for under $2/pound. This fish carves easily into thick boneless loins
which can be marinated (1-2 hrs.), then basted with Olive Oil, Soy Sauce
and Lime juice as they roast briefly in a 450-degree oven. You can
sear smaller loin cuts
on your outdoor grill after marination…putting grill marks on the outside
while leaving the inside of the cut virtually raw. Baking or grilling,
the key is quick cooking to retain moisture and flavor of the sea.
Sure, you can do some home Tuna canning, but that’s another column.
Clams & Mussels—no water needed to coax open Clams or Mussels
in the shell. The natural sea juice in the shellfish mixes with the
ingredients herein to form a flavorful broth that demands you dip good
Bread while enjoying the mollusks.
2 lbs. live Shellfish ¼ lb. unsalted Butter
¼ tsp. White Pepper 3 hearty dashes of Tabasco
6 sliced Green Onions 1 cup dry white Vermouth
Place all ingredients in a covered saucepan, heat until steaming
simmer, continue cooking until shells open, 5-10 minutes. Remove
Shellfish and set aside. Stir Tabasco and Pepper into broth.
Place Shellfish in serving bowls, pour broth over each serving and
garnish with chopped Parsley.
And
so much more—a visit to the Oregon Coast Aquarium (see story elsewhere
in this issue) clearly demonstrates the variety of edible life lurking
just off our shore. Some of our favorites: Black Cod (also
known as Sable) frequents cold, deep water and has fatty flesh that cooks
moist & tender…Flounder & Sole flatfish are best when sauteed whole
in Lemon juice & Butter and served whole for deboning at table…Ling
Cod is the best eating of the so-called rock or bottom fish available.
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