Air freight and aquaculture have combined to furnish a wider array of fresh 
seafood at retail and restaurant outlets than ever before. Nutrition experts 
encourage us to take advantage of this situation, but there are guidelines for 
our fishy indulgence. Marine scientists at Oregon State University have 
published a species list identifying the best and worst selections on the market in terms of both human health and seafood sustainability.

Salmon is our Pacific Northwest icon. It ranks first among all species in 
consumption, but its popularity, availability and pricing have been stimulated 
by aquaculture. The Norwegians created the successful salmon farming efforts
now concentrated in Chile and British Columbia and producing a harvest that
feeds the world. Farmed salmon made up just 2% of the world salmon supply in 1980, by 2004 it was 60%. However, the salmon farms in British Columbia
(which produced 145.4 million pounds in 2003) are now closely monitored by Canadian authorities after research has proven that pollution of the formerly 
pristine waters of inlet pen sites poses dangers to both humans and wild 
salmon. The economic impact on Northwest fishing communities dependent 
upon wild salmon fishing cannot be overstated. 

Farmed salmon eat an unnatural diet and are treated with antibiotics and pesticides to combat  disease outbreaks in their packed pens. Aquaculturists have found that the Atlantic salmon species is the most adaptable for farming, yet its taste quality is far removed from our wild stocks.

Dining wild has advantages 

Wild salmon populations in Oregon, Washington and to a lesser extent, British Columbia, have  suffered mightily from hydroelectric power facility impacts on their habitat. Hatcheries cannot successfully offset the damage to natural spawning runs posed by dams. Alaska, whose streams have never been dammed, now funds a major marketing effort on behalf of wild salmon and supplies 19% of the world's salmon supply. If you've been fortunate (and rich enough) to dine on troll-caught Columbia River salmon, you can attest to its tastability in competition with any catch from the marketing-fabled Alaska Copper River production.

Marine science approves the nutritional value of farmed shellfish, and Clams, Mussels and Oysters are in greater supply than ever thanks to aquaculture right here in the Northwest. The only finfish species native to the U.S., Catfish, is a major focus of successful farming. California farming is also producing a supply of striped bass. Shrimp is the world's most popular seafood, and farming efforts in Asia, Central and South America keep us all well and affordably fed with this species, while wild Oregon small shrimp are abundant. Scallops have also proven amenable to aquaculture in southeast Asia. 

Portugene 

Unendangered wild stocks -- Albacore, Black Cod, Halibut, Herring, King & Snow Crab, Mackerel, Mahmahi and Sardine wild populations remain 
unthreatened to date by the world's hunger....not so with Chilean Seabass, 
Atlantic Cod, Grouper, Marlin, Monkfish, Orange Roughy, Pacific Rockfish, Skate, Snapper, Swordfish and Bluefin Tuna...all wild stocks threatened by 
commercial overfishing.

OK, so now you know whether to feel guilty or not regarding your particular seafood species purchases. Here in the Northwest, you can fish in the wild with impunity if you're seeking Trout, Panfish, Dungeness Crab or Crawfish.  Salmon and Sturgeon sports anglers are now subject to strict times and limits imposed by government regulations based upon sustainability.

This correspondent applauds shellfish acquacultural achievments. We're inspired to share a pair of Mussel recipes we've garnered from internet sources. When we grew up in the Puget Sound area, wild Mussels were easily harvested, but came with tough beards and sandy contents.  Not so with the farmed Mussels now in abundance at your local purveyor.

Portugese Mussel Stew 

(This is a creation of Chef Kevin von Klause, owner of Philadelphia's White Dog Cafe ©)

1/4 cup Olive Oil
4 cups Chicken Stock
2½ cups diced Onions 1 can (14 oz.) Garbanzo Beans
1/4 cup minced Garlic 4 cups tightly packed Green Kale leaves
5 oz. sliced Chorizo Sausage 1½ lbs. Mussels in shell
½ cup sliced Pepperoni 1 tsp. Fresh Lemon juice
2 tsp. Paprika, ½ tsp. Salt, 1/4 tsp. red Hot Pepper Flakes,
2 tbsp.chopped fresh Cilantro leaves & stems,
2 Bay Leaves, 2 tbsp. Chopped fresh Italian Parsley,
½ cup dry White Wine, 1 can (28 oz.) Plum Tomatoes

In large stockpot heat Olive Oil over medium heat, add Onions, cook 5 min., add Garlic, cook 2  min., add Chorizo & Pepperoni, cook 5 min. stir in Paprika, Pepper Flakes & Bay Leaves, cook 1 min. Pour in Wine, simmer 2 min. Add Tomatoes & juice, breaking up whole tomatores w/spoon. Stir in Chicken Stock. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 20 min. Add Garbanzos 
& Kale, simmer 10 min. Add Mussels, cover pot and simmer until they 
open...4-6 min. Discard any unopened Mussels, stir in Lemon juice Salt, Cilantro & Parsley, serve immediately in bowls. 

Blistered Mussels

(Creation of Stan Frankenheimer, owner of Boston's Salamander restaurant)

8 doz. Mussels in shell 1/4 cup sweet Rice Wine
1 lb. sliced Chinese Pork Sausage 2 cups Coconut Milk
2 tbsp. Minced fresh Ginger 1/4 cup Rice Vinegar
1 tbsp. minced Garlic 1/4 cup Lime Juice
2 stalks thinly sliced Lemongrass (husk removed) 2 tbsp. Soy Sauce 
2 Red Onions, peeled & minced 1 tbsp. Coriander Seed
1/4 cup Sesame Oil,  4 ea. Kaffir Lime Leaves,
1 tbsp. Kosher Salt, 1 tbsp. Chili Paste,
2 tsp. Ground Black Pepper, 4 tbsp. coarsely chopped Cilantro,
4 cups Fish Stock, Cilantro leaves, Lime wedges 

Place heavy saucepot over medium-high heat, saute' Sausage, Ginger, Garlic,
Lemongrass & Onion in Sesame Oil until lightly browned, season w/salt & pepper. Add all liquids, Coriander and Chili Paste, bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer. Stir in Cilantro and Lime leaves, remove from heat. In a cast iron frying pan grill Mussels over high heat until they pop open (preferable to
steaming in liquid). Warm large soup plates, place Mussels and pour over broth & sausage, garnish with Lime wedges, Cilantro leaves or Green Onion tops. 

© 2006 Oregon Magazine