We’ve frolicked amidst the mountain snows of Oregon for 55 years and eagerly await the next winter playground now taking shape.  Our alpine adventures have included downhill ski excursions in Europe’s Alps and in British Columbia, Washington, Idaho, Utah, Colorado and New England, but Oregon takes a backseat to no place for the variety of venues represented here.
                            
 

Oregon offers 10 lift-served ski areas, with half boasting extensive Nordic cross-country groomed trail systems.  Snow conditions range from the dense, often damp snowfall packing the high Cascade range that backdrops the populous western valleys, to the feathery powder gracing the eastern altitudes that overlook vast stretches of ranchland.  Oregon’s network of alpine highways leads beyond resort facilities catering to downhill and cross-country skiers to entry to wilderness areas appealing to snowshoers, dogsledders, and, heaven forbid, snowmobilers.

Let’s review the full range of choices for those seeking winter exercise and inspiration in the Beaver state. Mt. Hood, just over an hour’s drive from the Portland metro area, goes beyond winter to offer the nation’s only year-round lift-served skiing.

Timberline…a spectacular lodge of massive timbers and native stone is a National Historic Landmark created as a federal Works Progress Administration project in the mid thirties.  Lodging, dining and meeting facilities live up to that too often used cliché “world class”…a designation fitting for the downhillers and snowboarders that train here during the summer months on the permanent snow slopes extending to the 8,500-foot level above the lodge.  A new 4-quad express chair, plus triple and double chairs serve all levels of ski and snowboard expertise, with these activities encouraged by 32 groomed trails and a boarders’ Pipe Park.  Clear weather presents a sweeping vista from Timberline that extends the depth of Oregon, clear into northern California.  Timberline Lodge is the terminus of a six mile switchback highway climbing Mt. Hood from Government Camp on U.S. highway 26.

Mt. Hood Meadows…largest ski area on Mt. Hood (2,150 acres), with 10 lifts serving 85 downhill runs and 2,777 vertical feet.  A day lodge complex includes Oregon’s largest equipment rental center and 10 bar and restaurant facilities.  A Nordic Center serves 15 kilometers of groomed trail.  There is terrain for every ski and snowboard level, including powderhounds…This skiing mecca is eight miles southeast of the Timberline access road and reached on highway 35, which leads northward into the Hood River valley.  The town of Hood River on I-84, some 60 miles east of Portland, is a tourist-oriented community with a variety of lodging and dining establishments.  Driving to Mt. Hood Meadows, there is a choice of
U.S. 26 from Portland, or I-84 freeway.  The latter is preferable except during rare wind and freezing rain conditions, offering far less traffic than the former.

Mt. Hood Ski Bowl…the largest night-skiing area in the United States, with 34 lighted runs.  Located on U.S. 26, this is the closest ski area to Portland, a proximity that encourages half day skiers.  No less than 37 black diamond runs challenge the most talented, but there is also an extensive beginner and intermediate lift-served complex.  This has the lowest base altitude of any Mt. Hood developed ski area and can be subject to occasional poor snow conditions.  A groomed snowboard area is served by one of the three chair lifts.  Ski Bowl is adjacent to Government Camp, where lodging is available.  There are dining and entertainment facility choices maintained at the ski area.

Cooper Spur…a low key family-oriented area closest to Hood River, 23 miles south, just off highway 35.  The area was first developed 75 years ago as a winter playground for Hood River valley residents.  Beginning and intermediate downhill skiers are the focus here.  The facility was purchased a year ago by Mt. Hood Meadows and facilities are seeing improvement.  There is a base day lodge for dining, rentals and a spa facility.  A new double chair lift opens this season, and new cross-country trails have been added.

Mt. Bachelor…the largest ski area in Oregon (3,683 acres), on the eastern edge of the Cascade range, this highly developed complex draws folk from across the U.S. and overseas.  The eastern slope provides usually dry snowfall, with 10 lifts serving 70 runs and 3,365 vertical feet.  There is a separate Nordic center with a network of groomed trails.  Several base lodge facilities, plus two mid-lift establishments, serve those who cavort on the 70 downhill runs.  (View from the old Mt. Bachelor Red Chair © 2002 Bob Pool )

Bend, the central Oregon resort center, is 18 miles away and has a wealth of resort and lodging choices, plus recreation selections that include fishing, horseback riding, tennis and rafting, plus the state’s largest concentration of golf courses.  A Bachelor summit lift usually enables skiing through June, when the full spectrum of outdoor activity beckons.  Spring visitors can choose from Oregon’s largest concentration of golf courses .  Sunriver resort, just below Bachelor, is a warren of golf layouts, shopping and condominium lodging, but is only one of many choices for putting one’s head down.  

In addition to the 200 mile drive southeast from Portland via U.S. 26, access to this area can be achieved by air to Redmond, just 16 miles north of 
Bend, served by daily nonstops from Portland, Seattle and San Francisco.

Hoodoo…on the summit of Santiam Pass on U.S. 22, this central Cascades day playground is one of Oregon’s older ski destinations, dating back to the late forties.  This season, it is getting a major upgrade, including two new quad  chairlifts and a 60,000 square foot day lodge.  Hoodoo is 85 miles east of Salem, its principal source of visitors.  It is 40 miles south of Bend and just 20 minutes east of the quaint cowboy community of Sisters.  Black Butte Ranch, seven miles west of Sisters and some 10 minutes from Hoodoo, is one of the premier resort facilities in the Pacific Northwest. It includes a pair of golf courses, a network of bicycle paths, two swimming and tennis complexes and a wide choice of condominium and private home rentals.

Anthony Lakes…between LaGrande and Baker City, this area just off U.S. 30 bypass from I-84, offers the driest snowfall among Oregon resorts.  It is a 315 mile drive east from Portland, but beloved by those who have skied its fluffy powder.  It has the highest base elevation (7,100 feet) in the state.  Its one triple chairlift serves a mountainside of 21 groomed runs, up to 1.5 miles in length.  Snowcat touring is available for half and full day excursions into the outback powder.  Lift serviced slopes include acres of expert steeps, bowls and open glades.  There is a day lodge at lift base.  Overnight lodging choices are available in LaGrande and Baker City, topped by the renovated and restored high rise Geiser Grand in Baker, erected early in the past century so that rail passengers and successful miners could luxuriate.

Willamette Pass…Oregon’s newest ski destination, developed in the past decade at the summit of highway 58, an hour’s drive east from Eugene.  This season the state’s first six-seat high speed lift will take skiers to the top of Eagle Peak (6,683 feet) in just six minutes.  The area has four other chairlifts to serve a total of 29 groomed downhill routes.  There are over 12 miles of Nordic trails.  A rustic resort choice of lodges on the shores of Odell and Crescent Lakes, adjacent to the skiing terrain, offers unique lodging and dining choices.  

Mt. Ashland…a community-owned operation is 18 miles south of Ashland on the California border, just uphill from I-5.  Four chairlifts serve 23 groomed runs.  The 7,500 foot summit reached by the main lift has panoramic views of the Siskiyou mountains.  This lift serves some steep, narrow expert routes.  Snow conditions here are dicey, with warm and stormy air from the Pacific sometimes leading to wet and icy terrain.  Ashland, a colorful college town, is home to the Shakespearean Festival (open in February) and a bounteous choice of lodging and fine dining.

Warner Canyon…situated 6,000 feet above the high desert of far southeast Oregon, this is a family-friendly, economical and very uncrowded mountain pass location just minutes north of Lakeview.  Frigid but dry desert winter weather creates light, fluffy powder to enjoy with rides down from the one triple chairlift.  This is a great choice for a family outing, with low prices and lack of lift lines assured. Lakeview has dining and lodging options, with the latter even including a hot springs resort.

There are your choices for enjoying Oregon’s great outdoors in the winter.  You will find fondue and colorful accents somewhat scarce, but in comparison with other destination choices, the price is generally quite right, and skiing challenges abound.  

© 2002 Oregon Magazine